
Magazine Issue 72
From Grain to Class (Spring 2026)
Your guide to classic and cutting-edge techniques for brewing with wheat, fonio, specialty malts, and more.
Contents
Inside this issue
Of Malt & Medals: River North’s Approach to Award-Winning PortersBy Matt HessDenver’s River North is winning international awards and a strong reputation for its deep, dark, malt-forward beers. Here, owner Matt Hess and head brewer Matt Malloy share the thinking and process behind them. As told to Ryan Pachmayer.
Loyal Legion PDX Has Us Pondering Longer Portland LayoversBy Jeff AlworthFrom our Love Handles files on the world’s best spots to enjoy a great beer: One of the finest airport bars in the country is pouring a wide range of Oregon craft from 90-plus taps.
Recipe: Mountain Rambler Singing Coyote Amber AleBy Ryan QuinlanMalt complexity leads the way in this amber ale—a gold medal–winner at the 2025 World Beer Cup—from Mountain Rambler in Bishop, California.
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The Long Red Tail of American Amber AleBy Joe StangeIn Sonoma County, California, Fogbelt Brewing is refreshing and reviving an American classic—Mendocino’s Red Tail Ale—and finding a receptive audience.
Recipe: Far Field Infrared American Red AleFrom Far Field Beer in Lawndale, California, in L.A.’s South Bay area, here’s a recipe for the American amber that won gold at the 2024 World Beer Cup.
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American Ale, Encased in AmberBy Joe StangeAmerican amber ales aren’t fossils—they’re more like liquid signals sent through time and space from an earlier generation. And today’s brewers continue to refine and polish them to an appealing ruby hue, while the opportunities for flavor and quality are greater than ever.
Recipe: Latgalian-Style Smoked Farmhouse AleThis recipe represents most of what we know about the traditional farmhouse style of Latgale in southeastern Latvia. Note that the bitterness and strength of these beers can vary widely—feel free to adjust the hops or pack more malt into your mash tun.
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Latvia’s Little-Known Latgalian Ale Is the Smoke Bomb of the BalticsThis obscure farmhouse brewing tradition out of eastern Latvia is still alive today, and it’s one that fans of smoked beer may want to add to their bucket lists.
Recipe: Opus Aeternum, the Neverending BoilBy Greg CaseyFrom South Africa’s Afro Caribbean and Soul Barrel breweries, this hefty barleywine of 17.5 percent ABV is based on a unique, experimental process involving a boil stretched out over six days.
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Brewer’s Perspective: The Story Behind Cape Town’s “Neverending” BoilBy Lucy CorneA collaborative experiment between South African brewers led to a super-hefty barleywine of 17.5 percent ABV, via an unusual boiling process measured in days rather than hours.
It’s Kiwi Craft and Kitschy Back-Alley Vibes at Golding’s Free Dive in WellingtonFrom our Love Handles files on our favorite spots around the world to enjoy a great beer: This characterful bar off an alleyway in New Zealand’s capital city offers a friendly welcome, local craft, tasty pizza, and a galaxy of Star Wars bric-a-brac.
Recipe: Creature Comforts DaySpringInspired by Belgian grisette, Creature Comforts in Athens, Georgia, labels this a “country wheat beer,” describing it as dry, grassy, herbal, and slightly fruity.
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Why Wheat Is the Brewer’s Ultimate Multi-ToolBy Josh WeikertA bit of wheat is hard to beat—and it shows up in a bunch of today’s most popular beers and styles, even if most drinkers have no idea it’s there. Well beyond wheat beers and weizens, the golden grain has become one of the most useful ingredients in the modern craft brewery.
How to Speak Beer’s Chemical LanguageBy Randy MosherIt’s helpful to develop a common vocabulary to describe what we sense in our beer, but it’s even more helpful to understand the chemistry underlying those aromas and flavors. Here’s a primer.
Recipe: NYBP Hazy CrushBy John HymanFrom New York Beer Project in Victor, New York, head brewer John Hyman shares this recipe for the experimental New England–style IPA that won back-to-back golds at the Great American Beer Festival. Besides hops selected for their bright, fruit-forward flavors, Hazy Crush features a cold-side addition of dried fruit and hibiscus flowers.
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Ask the Pros: How New York Beer Project’s “Island-Style” Hazy Crush Keeps Crushing MedalsWinner of back-to-back gold medals for experimental IPA at the Great American Beer Festival, NYBP head brewer John Hyman lays out the makings of their super-tropical Hazy Crush.
Recipe: ZwanzigZ Fulcrum Imperial StoutMike Rybinski, brewmaster at ZwanzigZ Pizza in Columbus, Indiana, shares this recipe for the American imperial stout that won gold at the 2022 and 2025 World Beer Cups—plus, notes for the ghost pepper variation that also won gold at the Great American Beer Festival in 2017.
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How ZwanzigZ Wins with Its Old-School Imperial StoutFrom ZwanzigZ Pizza & Brewing in Columbus, Indiana, the Fulcrum imperial stout twice won gold medals at the World Beer Cup, in 2022 and 2025. Here, brewmaster Mike Rybinski shares the beer’s inspirations and what makes it stand out from the modern crowd. As told to Ryan Pachmayer.
An Ode to Cold Liquor, Which Gets It Done QuickerCold showers are trendy, and cold plunges are so hot right now—but craft breweries were taking advantage of cold water before it was, well, cool. Here’s a closer look at one of the most undersung pieces of brewhouse equipment—the CLT—as well as other ways to knock out and chill.
Recipe: Thornbridge The Union IPAYou may not be able to ferment in a proper Burton Union—though we wouldn’t put it past some of you to build your own—but you can brew your own version of this beer that Thornbridge developed specifically for the country’s last working Union set.
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Here’s How England’s Thornbridge Is Preserving the UnionIn England’s East Midlands, the brewing trailblazer Thornbridge has rescued and is continuing to use a vital piece of British brewing heritage—an original Burton Union system. More than just a museum piece, the technology lends a suppleness to the ales that course through it.
Recipe: Goldfinger Wild Rice LagerBy Tom BeckmannA collaboration with Triptych of Savoy, Illinois, this amber lager from Chicago’s Goldfinger brings Midwestern flavor via Minnesota wild rice, Wisconsin hops, and a yeast strain resurrected from a 19th-century Wisconsin brewery.
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Brewing with Wild Rice, an American GrainBy Joe StangeThis truly indigenous, widely available American grain offers nutty, earthy flavors that would seem to be compatible with malt-forward beer. Yet relatively few breweries have tried it.
Recipe: Just Lite American LagerBy Josh WeikertBesides sanitation, success here depends on two things: slightly chloride-forward water to round out the malt, and great attenuation for a light, dry finish.
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Recipe: Kiitos Fonio Fusion IPAPatrick Bourque, head brewer at Kiitos in Salt Lake City, says they brewed this IPA to showcase fonio’s unique flavors—such as passion fruit, lychee, and white peach—and how those flavors meld nicely with the flavors and aromas of modern hop varieties.
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Recipe: Vine Street Black Is Beautiful Fonio AleMissouri’s first Black-owned brewery, Kansas City’s Vine Street, released this light, hoppy, fonio-focused riff on the Black Is Beautiful open-source collab in 2025.
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Fonio Calls, and Craft Brewers AnswerBy Kate BernotBreweries big and small are discovering the huge, modern potential of this tiny, ancient grain.
Recipe: Mova PilsnerBy Mova BrewingFrom Mova Brewing in Dnipro, Ukraine, here’s a recipe for the Czech-style pilsner that won gold at the 2025 European Beer Star, beating out some of the best lager breweries from Czechia, Germany, the United States, and around the world.
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Ask the Pros: How Ukraine’s Mova Perseveres to Brew World-Class, Czech-Inspired Pale LagerIn Dnipro, Ukraine, not far from the front lines of war with Russia, Mova Brewing sticks to a Czech script when brewing its Mova Pilsner, which won gold at the 2025 European Beer Star.
Green Bench’s Khristopher Johnson Picks a Six-Pack of Process, Place, POV, and PerfectionIn St. Petersburg, Florida, Green Bench produces a wide range of styles, but the beers that have most influenced cofounder and brewer Khristopher Johnson are those that showcase a particular blend of localized expression, integrated process, and disciplined focus. As told to Jamie Bogner.
Recipe: Formula Wetland WheatBy Jesse BrownFrom Formula Brewing in Issaquah, Washington, here’s a recipe for the contemporary American wheat beer that won gold at the 2025 Great American Beer Festival.
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Style School: Authentically American WheatBy Jeff AlworthBased more on an ingredient than an existing tradition, American wheat is arguably the United States’ first truly native modern beer style. Refreshing and easygoing, attractive and flavorful, it arrived just in time to help American craft beer grow.
Editors’ Picks: Beer Hikes, Beer-Barrel Whiskey, and a New Pump to KnowBy Jamie BognerFrom beer-barreled whiskey to brewery hikes and your new favorite player in the transfer portal, here are a few things we’re stoked on, now.