Salt

So, pickle beers are happening. What’s the big dill?

A nearly forgotten style became a popular plaything in American brewing. Balance, as usual, is the trick—and how to pull it off depends on what you put in it.

The key to a proper gose, says Fal Allen, the longtime brewmaster at Anderson Valley Brewing Company, is to go easy on the salt and don’t put too much stock in the fancy stuff.