A characterful Belgian-style blonde ale might have the most to offer here, but in keeping with the season—and what you’re likely to have in the fridge—a festbier or other malt-forward pale lager could work as well.
Serves: 4
1 shallot, sliced
1½ cup (12 fl oz/355 ml) Belgian-style blonde ale
1 cup (8 fl oz/237 ml) water
6 peppercorns
2 lemon slices
4 six-ounce (170-gram) salmon filets, skin off
Salt
In a large pan, combine the shallot, ale, water, peppercorns, and lemon slices and heat on medium until bubbles begin to form on the bottom of the pan. Carefully add the salmon fillets to the poaching liquid (there should be no bubbles or rolling water) and cook gently 8–10 minutes.
Gently remove the fish from the liquid with a perforated spatula and season lightly with salt.
Hops Bearnaise
1 small dried hop cone, crushed
¼ cup (2 fl oz/59 ml) white wine
1 shallot, halved
2 peppercorns
2 egg yolks
Juice of half a lemon
1½ cup butter, melted
Tabasco
Salt
In a small saucepan, combine the hop cone, wine, shallot, and peppercorns and reduce over medium heat until the pot is almost dry. Remove the shallot and peppercorns from the pot.
Combine the egg yolks and lemon juice in a stainless steel mixing bowl and whisk together.
In a pot, heat a cup of water until it begins to steam. Place the mixing bowl on top of the steaming pot and whisk the egg yolks until the eggs begin to resemble ribbons. Remove from the heat and slowly whisk in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time. Once the butter is incorporated, add the remains of the pot with the wine and hops and a dash of Tabasco. Season with salt.
Apple-Fennel Slaw
1 green apple, thinly sliced
1 head of fennel, julienned
1 bunch arugula
2 Tbs (1 fl oz/30 ml) olive oil
1 Tbs (0.5 fl oz/15 ml) fresh lemon juice
Salt and fresh cracked black pepper
In a small mixing bowl, combine the apple, fennel, arugula, olive oil, and lemon juice and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
To serve, place one salmon filet on each plate. Top with 2–3 ounces (29–89 ml) Hops Bernaise sauce. Add the Apple-Fennel Slaw alongside.
Beer suggestions: For the blonde ale, try Big Friendly Shadows Cast by Tomorrow (Oklahoma City), La Chouffe (Achouffe, Luxembourg, Belgium), pFriem Belgian Blonde Ale (Hood River, Oregon), Russian River Fonio (Windsor, California), St. Bernardus Kombine (Watou, Belgium), Westmalle Extra (Malle, Antwerp, Belgium), or your favorite local craft offering.
